How do I properly torque my XD-15 bottom bracket?

The most important part of setting up an XD-15 bottom bracket with Angular Contact (A/C) bearings is getting the preload set correctly. Briefly, these bearings need to be preloaded 40-60 inch lbs. or 5-7 Nm. This is about 5x the torque setting of a standard radial bearing.

With a Shimano road crankset, you can use the Enduro Bearings tool with a ¼” drive and with your torque wrench to achieve the preload with the non drive side cap nut, or you may use the preload ring on an MTB crank. With a SRAM or GXP crank, you must use the thick (0.6 mm) wave washer provided with the XD-15 bottom bracket. The washer must be completely flat after the crank arms are torqued to specification. Prolonged riding with bearing play can lead to failure and void the warranty. This service should only be performed by a qualified trained technician from a bicycle shop.

How do I properly torque Enduro Bearings Angular Contact bottom bracket or wheel bearings?

Enduro Bearings Angular Contact (A/C) bearings require some preload, though not nearly as much as the the XD-15 A/C bearings. This is because they have a shallower A/C design. The bottom bracket torque numbers for A/C bearings should be 12-26 inch lbs, or 1.2 - 3 Nm. This is roughly twice the normal radial bearing torque numbers. Again, this can be achieved by the torque ring or torque nut on a Shimano or similar crank system, or with the light (0.4 mm) wave washer completely flattened after the cranks are torqued onto the spindle to manufacturer specifications. This service should only be performed by a qualified trained technician from a bicycle shop.

How do I service my XD-15 Angular Contact Bearings?

Because of the design and the material of the XD-15 ceramic bearings, you do not need to service these as often as any other ceramic hybrid bearing. After installation, the bearings and bottom bracket should be checked after the first ride to ensure they have NO side to side play, and are properly preloaded and torqued to specification (as above). After your crank arms have seated and they have no play, they should be checked every so often so that they have NO side to side play. As for re-lubing or greasing the bearings, they should be checked every 6 months or 1 year depending on the amount you ride and the riding conditions. These bearings can run without any lubrication, however they do run better with grease. You can use any good quality grease available, and do not need to use ceramic specific grease. Please refer to the tech videos for the disassembly and servicing details for XD-15 Angular Contact (A/C) bearings. Prolonged riding with bearing play can lead to failure and void the warranty. This service should only be performed by a qualified trained technician from a bicycle shop.

I just tightened my Enduro Bearings XD-15 Angular Contact bottom bracket to specification and it doesn’t spin like I want it to.

The first thing to check is the bottom bracket shell from the manufacturer. Unfortunately, even with the superior cost and technology of carbon fiber bicycles, the BB shell is often not parallel and the bore is often not round or otherwise not straight. And sometimes even paint overspray can cause misalignment of components. In most cases, the XD-15 BB can compensate for these problems because of the Angular Contact (A/C). In extreme cases, the frame may need some modification for everything to be in alignment for smooth running bearings and this work can only be performed by a qualified shop mechanic and within the warranty service plan of the frameset manufacturer. However, if the crank can spin 1 or more revolution with a flip of the hand and no chain, probably one test ride will seat everything and it will run much smoother after this is performed. Try this first if this is the case and before modifications. If it remains so after a couple of rides, you can try a lighter spring washer on a SRAM set up (0.4 mm) or backing off slightly the torque setting for a Shimano or similar system. Just remember, XD-15 A/C bearings require preload and must NEVER have play in them. This will void the warranty as well.

Should I use MAX type bearings for my hubs?

MAX type bearings have a special design to provide a higher load rating than a standard retainer type bearing given the same dimensions. These perform with superior service for pivots in suspension bikes, however, when they spin at faster RPM in a hub or bottom bracket, they do not roll as smoothly as retainer type bearings. In some cases if they are preloaded, or side loaded at this higher RPM, the ball can touch the fill slot inherent in the design of MAX bearings, or simply the balls rolling against each other, creating some rough feeling. Therefore they will work in these situations, however not recommended.

How do I know what bearing I am looking for if there is no part number?

Many bearings in the bicycle industry do not have any part # on them especially recently, making it difficult to identify, or the numbers on the bearings are not industry standard numbers (ie 6902, 61902, 6002, etc.). In these situations, the bearings must be identified using a caliper set on the metric measuring choice (98% of bearings are metric dimensions). You need to carefully measure the inner diameter of the bearing (ID), the outer diameter of the bearing (OD) and the width of the bearing. You can use the Enduro Bearings Application or the table in the tech section of our website to determine which bearing size. Then you must match the application with the type of bearing you are looking for (ie, MAX bearing for suspension pivot, ABEC 5 or ceramic bearing for a hub, etc)

What bearings are in my XXXX suspension bike? What bearings are in my XXXX hubs?

While we do our best to keep up with manufacturer’s bearing specifications for their hubs, suspension bikes, headset bearings, and bottom bracket bearings, it’s still possible we do not know what’s inside every single one. Our list now exceeds 500 hubsets and bicycles over the past 20 years. Of course the best way to find out what bearing combination is to contact the manufacturer and ask them or check their website; many are listed in pdf version now. However you can also send us an email at info@endurobearings.com and if we know, we will give you that information, recommend the type of bearings or give you the Enduro Bearings kit # to buy to complete your rebuild. If we do not know what the combination of bearings is for your suspension bike or hubset, we may even send you a free steel bearing kit or give you a deal on a ceramic kit for that information!

Do ceramic bearings last longer than steel bearings?

XD-15 ceramic bearings will last longer than steel bearings, and even with minimal lubrication as long as they are properly set up and adjusted. For all other ceramic hybrid bearings, they need regular cleaning and lubrication service in order to last longer than any steel bearings. Every six months is a good benchmark service interval, but common sense also dictates here; after a particularly muddy cross race or long rain ride for instance. Most bearings will last a very long time as long as they have grease in them, but once the grease is gone and they are running dry, it will be a short time to replacement.

It rains and stays wet frequently where I live, so normal bearings don’t last. Does Enduro have an option for me?

The Enduro Bearings 440C Stainless bearings are the right choice for you. While chromium steel is the hardest material for bearings, 440C Stainless is ideal for riders dealing with wet weather in mind. The 440C Stainless bearings provide additional protection through LLB* type seals and CRC* Marine Grease that stands up even against the toughest conditions. They are also well suited in headsets and other places where sweat and corrosion can become a problem.

Is there information on press fit tolerances for hub bearings?

Yes, here at Enduro Bearings we try to provide the highest level of technical information about all our products to customers. 

Usually axle tolerances are a “slip fit”. In general, the tolerance of the ID of the bearing is say 12 mm (+0.000, -0.008 mm) or the nominal size of the bearing is 11.992-12.000 mm. In general, our bearings would measure 11.997-11.999 mm. Therefore for a slip fit, the spindle must be just under this. 11.980 to 11.990 is a range to work with. Working with aluminum axles, you must take into account temperature when made, and then room temperature later. Also anodizing must be considered, some types of ano add material, some take it away. It is recommended for bearing fitment to machine these surfaces after anodization.

For press tolerances on the OD, this can also vary from manufacturer. The general OD tolerance of a bearing in the hub size is ~20 mm (+0.000, -0.010). The bearing usually measures 19.997-19.999 as it is a ground surface, same as the ID. More accurate than a machined surface. The recommended interference fit for light series bearings is (-0.0005 mm), which is very difficult  for most machinists to hit, but this is the target range. Realistically it is usually at the (-0.0005 to -0.0010 mm) range. 
 
Some things to remember besides temperature and anodizing for press fit are also front hub and rear hub spoke tension sometimes stretches out the bore, and may drastically change the fit. 
 
In ABEC 3 level we offer only C3 fit internal clearance which is 0.011-0.021 mm, where ABEC 5 we offer C3 and CN fit. CN fit is tighter at (0.006-0.018 mm). The actual clearance is generally right in the middle of these ranges.
My pulleys make noise in the central rear cogs, how can I fix that?

Your chain is running too close to the upper jockey wheel (pulley). Turn your B tension screw 1.5 to 2 full turns to quiet it down.

Where can I go to purchase Enduro Bearings products directly?

You will find any and all of our products available for purchase via one of our online dealers. You can find them at the following addresses:

Enduro Fork Seals / Real World Cycling : http://www.enduroforkseals.com

Enduro Bearings Online : http://www.endurobearingsonline.com

You can also go through your preferred local shop and have them contact us directly, we always like to help support local businesses!

I just installed my bottom bracket and my crank won't slide through.

When it comes to bearing tolerances, certain cranks feature slightly oversized or undersized spindle diameters. Enduro produces all bearings to the industry standard spec, but we can't always account for the wide range in spindle size. If you find that your crank is having trouble sliding into the inner diameter of the bearing, there could be several things at work:

- Check the temperature of the working environment, even a room at 80F can cause a crank spindle to change diameter. Try placing the crank or spindle itself in the freezer for a few hours and then attempt reinstallation. 

- The bearing cups or bearings themselves could be slightly crooked n the frame shell. Always double check this but backing out the cup opposite the crank arm, then attempt reinstallation. 

My bearing feels rough in the bike but smooth in my hand.

We produce all our bearings to the exact, industry specified, sizes. However, different frames and hub shells use different tolerances..some can be slightly undersized while others slightly oversized. In order to account for this, you must make sure that your bearings are seated completely and properly before riding. Often times, in an undersized shell, the bearing can become cocked at a slight angle..even when using the BRT-005 it can be hard to tell whether the bearing is fully seated or not. If you find the bearing feels rough after its been pressed in, tap the bearing lightly with a plastic mallet in even intervals and then check it again. Often times, this fixes the problem and the bearing seats fully allowing it to spin freely. 

I just washed my bike after a race, and now the cranks won't spin as smoothly.

Washing your bike after a long ride or muddy race is fine as long as you make sure to thoroughly check your bottom bracket bearings after. While you're washing and soaping your bike, that liquid flows down the tubes directly to the BB shell where it can infiltrate and cause damage to the bearings or cups themselves. The best course of action if you are going to wash your bike in this manner is to check the cranks post-wash. If something feels rough, take the cranks off and check the bearings. You can pry up the dust seal with a pick and apply new grease with a finger. Clean the bearing with a rag and then reassemble. If you are running XD15 bearings, then there is nothing to worry about post-wash..just keep riding.

I just installed my GXP cranks and there is play.

If you find there is play in your cranks after you've preformed the installation to the correct specs, you may need to substitute the spring washer that sets the preload on the bearings. As a rule of thumb, you always want to try the first installation with the thin/light spring washer (measuring 0.4mm in width). No matter how many spacers you use to achieve the correct chain line, the spring washer must be used on the DRIVE side. However, if after tightening the cranks you still have play, install the thick/heavy spring washer instead (measuring 0.6mm in width). 

I just installed my GXP cranks and they are too tight.

If you find your cranks are too tight and won't spin smoothly after installing to the correct specs, you may need to check what spacers you've used. As a rule of thumb, you will want to preform the first installation using all thin/light spacers and spring washers (24x0.5mm, and 0.4mm). GXP cranks take a bit of experimentation in order to get the torque correct, so try several different combinations of spacers until you find one that works for your particular frame shell. Do note that the spring washer, of any thickness, must be used in the installation of GXP cranks in order to preload the bearings (on the DRIVE side)

I installed my GXP cranks correctly, but they creak after a few rides.

This problem can be solved by using the light, 0.4mm spring washer on the drive side in addition to the other spacers you've used to achieve correct installation previously. 

I'm having trouble getting my TorqTite bottom bracket to start threading.

On frames where the shell tolerance is especially tight, you may find that your TorqTite BB is difficult to get started. The easy fix is to lightly press one cup into the bottom bracket shell, giving the other side a bit extra purchase to begin the threading process. 

A special note for BBright bottom brackets, which feature a 79mm wide shell. The TorqTite center sleeves come in two widths, standard and 79mm. If you have a kit with the standard center sleeve, you will need to use the provided BBright spacer (laser etched to indicate) against the step of the center sleeve to achieve proper spacing. For the 79mm sleeves, no additional spacer is required to achieve fit.

For further assistance, please see our instructional video for BBright: Youtube video link

How do I know which pivot kit/bottom bracket/fork seal kit to purchase for my bike?

The best way to know which kit you'll need is to contact our customer service representatives directly via the info@endurobearings.com email address. You will want to provide the following information:

For pivot kits: Make, Model, Year of the bike and pivot. If you are replacing your shock bushings with needle bearings, we'll also need the width of the upper and lower spans. 

For bottom brackets: You can consult one of our BB compatibility charts under the Support section of the website. If you email us directly, please provide Make, Model, Year, and the crankset you are trying to run on your bike.

For fork seal kits: Make, Model, Year of the bike and the fork. 

What ABEC level are MAX type bearings?

For MAX type bearings, no ABEC rating higher than ABEC 1 is possible because of the construction of this bearing type with fill slot. However, because they are MAX type, they have 37% higher static capacity. We use Grade 10 chromium steel balls and races for these bearings. The ID and OD tolerances and raceways are made to ABEC 3 standards. In a MAX type bearing, there is no retainer or ball separator in order to fill with a Maximum number of balls. In this case, the balls rub against each other during rotation. For noise testing, which has no relation to these slow turning bearings, they are ABEC 1 rated.

I have an OSBB bike and want to run a TorqTite bottom bracket.

While we don't have a strict solution for OSBB shells, we have come up with a clever way to adapt a BB30 bottom bracket to work perfectly. Because OSBB carbon shells are 61.5mm in width as opposed to the standard 68mm, you will need to use BK-6100 spacer kit in order to achieve proper fit. These spacers go between the lip of the BB cup and the frame shell, and once installed properly will allow you to run your preferred BB30 TorqTite bottom bracket. If you need information on this solution, please contact us directly via http://info@endurobearings.com

I have a true BB30 crank, which TorqTite BB do I need?

If you are using a true BB30 crank, designed for 68mm shells in either press fit or direct fit, the crank will not have enough useable length to work with any available TorqTite bottom bracket. If you have a Shimano or "wide" crank (Rotor, Raceface, FSA386) then you can use the BB30Ada TorqTite system without issue.

I have a BBright TorqTite Bottom Bracket, which cup goes on which side?

If you are using one of our BBright specific bottom brackets, you will notice that one cup is much wider than the other. Due to the BBright asymmetric design, you will want to use the narrow cup on the non-drive side, or LEFT side of the bike (looking forward towards the handlebars).